Friday, November 23, 2012

Thanksgiving Blues


My thanksgiving meal was a sham – double  patty cheesebuirger, extra onions and jalapenos, mustard, no ketchup, smacked down on the chipping red paint of a picnic table. I didn’t order it sans ketchup, of course; they just gave it to me that way and I was in no position to complain. It was quite a shabby sight, if you don’t mind me saying. My bag passed out in the backpack equivalent of a fetal position at my feet, canteen upright replacing the soda I refused to get for an extra 75 cents (no, no drink, yes I’m sure, no not sprite either, muchas gracias). My overalls hung wrinkled on my body, bunching up in the crotch when I sat down. Happy thanksgiving to you and yours, I grumbled.

The young woman behind the counter had a ponytail that looked oppressive. It was the kind of ‘do that tugged so tightly on her hairline that sections of her forehead started to stream into the center of her skull, forming ditches from her eyebrows to her ears. She seemed much too hurried for the pace of the day with that hairdo. I picked up my burger and shoveled a quarter section into my mouth. Thanksgiving and Brownsville: streets dead, shops locked and gated, no cars, no foot traffic, just me, wandering up to blackened convenience-store windows salivating at the pre-packaged donuts. Chris says I’ve been spending too much time on buses. Astute observation, jackass.

It would be more enlightening to say I’ve spent too much time alone while surrounded by dozens of people. I’ve spent too much time apart from the familiar – too much time away from family and friends. I’ve spent too much time spewing the banal, redundant witticisms to strangers, too much time telling truths about myself and not enough lying voraciously just for the fuck of it all. I’ve spent too much time in transit, too much time in motion, too much time as a timeless bitch; that would help clarify things.

So inevitably I get locked in the dankest caverns of my mind, talking to myself, playing with my thoughts, prodding and poking at my inner sensitivity with hot rods and pointy sticks. And as a side effect I don’t end up doing much of anything at all. Mostly because I don’t feel like it. You really have to be in the mood for that kind of thing.

The second quarter of my thanksgiving repast finds its way into my jowls. I gnash and look up at the taught-haired woman staring with sorrow. Usually I can smell the source of melancholy on a person. Shit job, shit day, shit husband, shit hangover. Regret, faithlessness, sickness and death. But her sorrow is all confused and wishy-washy. I can’t quite pin it down. Licking grease from my lower lip, I try to look into her eyes. They light up as she turns back and chats with her co-workers. And then back to me – that flood of sorrow once more. What is she trying to show me? Where does this pain and devastation come from, how did it become so sodden, why all the weight?

And then I smelled it, sniff, a definite terrifying whiff – shit. The sorrow’s for me. She grieves for my bag, down for the count, shuffled under my sandals. For my double patty cheeseburger all garnished and sweating on thanksgiving day. For my patronage in dead streets while Brownsville is on lock-down or cozying up with family, and my own sad sorrowful eyes. So she serves me a side of fries, with a bottle of ketchup from the back, to feed my Thanksgiving Blues.

Monday, November 12, 2012

Lot 41

Transcribed note:

Dear Jordan,

You helped me cry today, legs buckled at 35 degrees, spread at a tilt on patchy browning grass. No marker or tombstone in sight - but why would i have known? I paced for an hour or so through the lives and expiration of other people, everyone else, until eventually, I gave in and collapsed in my spot. I bent my head down into the cemetery grass and breathed in its dry earth. Five days before this i had stood perfectly tall, just inches away from the full length mirror hanging in the 3rd floor restroom of Austin's Public Library waiting to cry. Drought. All flood gates dusted and barricaded off. No fucking tears. And yet there I stood, without a blink, waiting like a teenager to watch myself break down. Not one fucking tear for my own humiliation - biding hours on hold for a stranger that i knew wasn't coming back for me - or for my own disorientation - alone for nearly two months now without 24 hours actually to myself - or for my flailing confusion - how the fuck did i get here? So after what seemed like days doubled over the cemetery green, I threw my head back to stare up at the freezing blue Fort Worth skies, and i laughed.

"Well... this is about to be trite." I choke and feel tears well up behind dried lids.
"I have no idea where the fuck you are Jordan... or where I am for that matter. Ha. Maybe I'm right on top of you, in which case, well, i'm terribly sorry. Damn. These things are fucked - do you know that? Words never pour out the way you'd expect them to in a cemetery. It'd like they gag you with freshly cut flowers and black veils the moment you stroll through those ashy gates. Or you get a terrible case of the social hiccups causing you to spurt out insignificant bursts of words, either incoherent or totally unrelated to whatever you intended to say. Kind of like now." Hic

I tell you about Candice and Will and Steph and Ajooni and Poonam and Ian and Hannah and Alana and Megan and Leslie and Lawrence and Andrew and, fuck, the list goes on forever. It's cliffs-notes upon cliffs-notes; menial but at the moment seemingly vital basics about the lives of those people... us... the people who you flipped around with your first smile. I stutter and laugh and hiccup some more. 10 minutes trail into 40 and by the time i'm finally out of things to say I perch my elbow on my hip and slide my hand under my chin - my cheeks are soaked, streaked with 40 minutes worth of tears that had gone unnoticed. I grab for my phone and pull up your mother's number, seeing it glow on my screen. My thumb shakes over the dial key but i can't seem to press down, afraid that I'll hiccup and she'll hear my tear-stained cheeks and broken posture.

Dear Jordan, your city is beautiful and very much alive. People here are laughing and moving and suffering through it all. It's the reason i'm here and traveling, to watch this kind of motion and get pulled into the cement current. And as much as i remind myself to avoid the act of wishing, I find myself wishing now, for the first time more than ever, that i could just call, pull you out for drinks, tuck the two of us into a corner and watch your eyes scan my face. We could detail old developments of our lives and others'. We could eat and laugh and avoid heavy topics. We could say too much and take deep gulps of brown beers but  instead, I just run my fingers over damp cheeks and babble on about everything but. Everything but the glaring blue skied truth of it all which is, here, on this freezing Fort Worth day, I, like the rest of the world, miss you.

"I have to go," I swallow raspy remnants of voice. Leaning forward, I hesitate, then press my lips to the scratchy ground. I push my palms down and lift my body up onto unsteady feet. I laugh at how badly i suddenly have to pee and flag down an employee on golf cart. He waves me on board and floors it to the nearest restroom. Tears dry quickly with the flow of this air and I know it's time to leave this place. Move on from this city and let the passing wind take loss and fear and humiliation and hiccups in my exit. Always, missing you.

Love,
Rachel

Tuesday, November 6, 2012

addendum

Thought experiment (for me to chew): if no one is quite as exceptional as you believe yourself to be, should it make everyone outstanding or just plain ordinary?

The Odd Days


It was an aberration; an anomaly in the birth canal, but boy oh boy if you could have been there, if you could have seen it! The child came shooting out with a skull enough for two of them – screams and rips, the lens of each frame is painted translucent red and dripping. Yessir, the doctor swore it was the biggest head he’d ever saw on a critter, “whoo,” exhaling as he mops his brow with the pale blue and brown speckled sleeve of his scrubs, “what a show.”

The waiting room was packed, haggard reporters smoked cigars and downed miniature cups of vending machine coffee, filling the role of the absentee father; good for nothing schmuck. They all waited, clucking and murmuring about the newest freak show in town.

But the mother kept him and coddled him, cooing like every new mother must, swinging the ballooned baby in the crook of her arms. Before she released him to the world of gawks and stares, she sat rocking her precious baby boy, cheeks wet with joy at the beauty of what she held. It was hers, a piece from her ripped out from inside in violence and bright lights. She made him, the repulsive little thing. She licks her lips to ease her tongue, dry and cracking; they taste of salt, whether sweat or tears she cannot tell. Her cries thicken in either joy or fear or possibly both. As the hospital filled with ooh-ers and onlookers, the mother sat coddling her boy, whispering fantasies both near and far of unlikely heroes to welcome him gently into this world, wondering how he’ll possibly fare.

Still, the real show was to watch him grow. Parents and teachers and strangers all stared collectively in awe throughout the years, worried or possibly waiting for that giant head of his to teeter over and bring the tiny fleshy frame crashing down with him. It was a freakish baby balancing act watching him learn to stand and walk. His massive head sprouted fine blond hairs, wisping around his skull like cloud patterns on a distant earth, moonside window view looking down. The thin fibers of his jacket, like those on his head, shake terrifyingly with every gust of wind. But the boy would move on, stepping gingerly as any toddler might, completely unaware of his own bobbling head.

Neighbors would bring their kids to the park for play, hoping to get a look at the beast move with astounding elegance. Their necks would crane and women gasped, grabbing their collars outside on fall days at the thought of the precious boy tumbling down and never getting up – they never dared push him, but they all dreamt of it. Still the boy pressed on, indifferent and unaware; his feet would bound to the sound of his mother’s fairytales rushing through his memory.

The danger years were three to five, years clad with desperate denigrating braces and outrageous DIY solutions. Grandma pasted popsicle sticks into the collar of his baby gap shirts. Grandpa was often found whispering lectures late at night, suggesting he figger this whole head thing out before he hits puberty. The neighbor Jan swore to pete’s sake that a spoonful of pure maple syrup and just a drop of artists cement would harden that neck right up. His older sister joked that they should just drain it of all the air before he floats away. But late at night she would peer into his bed imagining the best place to drill without seriously hurting her stupid airhead brother. Sometimes she ran into Grandpa there. Uncle Al was even seen once dangling the boy by only his head, shaking slightly with the spins of too much Jameson. He was sure that with the right taps of his plumber hands, he could unclog whatever it was that was fillin that baby boy brain uh his.

But then one day he straightened out, just like that, about age seven and a half. He came home from school with his head down an inch and body up. And the day after that and the day after that until the boy’s bulb was indistinguishable from the rest of his 2nd grade class. The kid was a medical marvel, no longer cursed with that massive, obtrusive head. His mother threw a big party and everyone was invited – the ladies wore sequined cocktail dresses and the men rented tuxes, and they drank champagne until five in the morning. The party was better than New Years and lasted twice as long. The reporters swarmed, now with open invitations. They sucked on Lucky Strikes and downed flutes of bubbly, taking quotes from an inebriated mother about happy endings and unlikely heroes.

And as years went by the boy slipped into normalcy, walking and talking and playing with toys and memorizing multiplication tables and pulling the pigtails of crying girls like all his friends. The only mention of his former head size was when Uncle Al would knock back too much of the golden juice at family get togethers and slur some lines about, “Remember yur boy had a head like a library globe?? Damn, shur was big. Whatever happened to that head?” and then Mom would slap him one good, straight into sleep. The world shirked it off, the garish impressiveness of baby boy, the story of miracles. But late at night, when he would rest his head on newly purchased kid-sized pillows, he could still hear grandpas lectures or his big sister mumbling to herself. Night was when he remembered himself as he truly was. He could still hear the cooing of his mother’s fairytales about broken heroes and peculiar gentleman with fantastical endings.

And people began to forget about the odd days. Mom burned the photo albums and said she lost them in the move. Grandma died and Grandpa took up woodwork. Neighbor Jan moved to Greenwich Village to try her hand at sculpting and his sister went to college for nursing. Only Uncle Al and the boy himself seemed to cling to a recollection of the odd days, but what did Uncle Al know, he’s a drunk. His childhood memories were shaky, maybe from the wear of passing time. But when he was alone, he’d spend hours with them, seeing that the visions themselves were always unfocused, what with the years of wobbling under the weight of his massive skull.

In those days he never once cried about it, back when he didn’t know any better. But these days the fairytales were the only things to still soothe him to sleep. He’d toss and turn at night thinking of the plight of the outcasts, the loner life. He’d elaborate on banal works of fiction, making them more disparaging at first and more fantastical in the end. The broken heroes, they spent years alone, crushing great things in their awkwardness and fumbles. But they deserved much more than that, they just couldn’t contol it, couldn’t know better, and every time, one day, they find their glorified place, unique and celebrated in a world that never quite fit them.

Time is oft spent in the memory of the middling folk, dreaming of years passed, the odd days or the exceptional ones. The less the world learned to gawk in awe at his now unremarkable form, the more he swore it to be his. Uncle Al died of alcohol poisoning. Finally, the tears would come, but only at brief, when shaky memories took hold of shaky hands. Alone, they shattered picture frames and ceramic figurines lining his shelves. Broken records and torn books scattered across the floor of his adult home. The scene would zoom out and he’d see it, crying in fear for the things he lost and joy at his own heroic fumblings. Curled on the floor, among the ruins of all his precious things, he’d breathe in stories of unlikely heroes. And for a brief moment, he’d lick his lips and taste the salt like that of his mother, confused and lost in what exactly he was crying for.

Thursday, November 1, 2012

Fairytales in Fort Stockton


“Coffee?” The Indian man behind the counter reiterates.

“Yes, coffee. Is there a place I can grab a cup of coffee here, or anywhere in Fort Stockton?”

“Coffee,” he lets his brow furrow. He guides his bifocals up a notch on the bridge of his nose, letting the frames cover his thinning eyebrows. He rubs his head where sparse hairs tickle rough palms. He must have rubbed this spot clean before the last time a visitor came through town. I want to make sure we’re on the same subject – there is far too much confusion in his parted lips to be answering the question I believed I had asked. “Coffee.” He says again, speaking the word with a harder O than I’m used to, like that used in oaf or showoff or good-for-nothing-nomad. I shift with the weight of my bag, looking around to see if anyone else is as puzzled as either one of us.

“Yes. There is restaurant across the street.” He gives in. “And other restaurant here in pink building.”

“…and they have coffee?” cawwwfee, I let it draw out as if I interrupted the middle of a Rosetta Stone recording.

“They ah Mexican restaurant.” What am I asking?

I notice my voice is softer than usual, partially swallowed by the gravitational force of sitting semi-upright for hours as I move deeper into texas. I clear my throat to thank him but can’t bear to continue the conversation even for a wrap up. Fort Stockton is too easily stumped and I’m worried about the further damage I could cause. I cinch my backpack around my waist and head out the propped door. ‘The pink building’ – although usually a useful descriptor, in this case it was pure excess. ‘The only building’ would suffice. I slide past the other three customers and up to the counter.

“Can I get a cup of coffee?”

“Coffee?” the waitress repeats after me. I stop breathing temporarily, my organs all following the baited breath, turn their top halves to the aproned woman in front of me and wait for my next move. Really? What am I asking??

“Yeah, I can make you some,” she throws in craning her head toward the stale quarter pot from this morning. I exhale and my body starts ticking again. Pointing to a corner table near the window, I nod in gratitude and weave my way through chairs. The fake cloth pattern of the plastic is washed out by residual pink bouncing through the window.

I set up home for whatever amount of time a coffee will buy me in this joint and start typing away. Catching up on journal entries that I rationalize away as blogposts for the curious types in my midst, I knock back tepid mugs full of translucent brown water, tinged with the zing of the underside of a Mr. Coffee burner. Hours flow and I move to another food joint to get the best of Fort Stockton’s tex-mex smothered in cream. I tap in again and take a moment pause to wonder if I’m missing out on this city’s gems. The rowdy group of cowboys bear the brunt of my curiosity.

“So fellas, what’s good in Fort Stockton?”

“Oooh we got a live one!,” the tan wrinkles bunch like wadded leather underneath his wide-brimmed hat. They hoot and laugh and make side comments, eventually turning back to me with a twangy, “Darlin… you found yourself in the unofficial truck stop of West Texas. Ain’t much you can do, before we get to want.”
I smile and turn back to spooning my cheese sauce around the oblong ceramic plate. 

Time streams by and I find myself with only 80 minutes to kill before the bus pulls in. Trekking back to the convenience store where I was dropped off not eight hours earlier, I wave in response to the honks and ballcap tips that pour out of 18-wheelers. I survey the crowd casually to check my fellow bus riders – a couple pressed against the side of the cement blocked building, and two men doubled over with their hands covering their ears speaking in one-word answers on each side of the corner – I break left.

His name is undue salvation tucked into an army bag. Christian Resurrection. That, my dear readers, is potentially the only direct truth of the rest to follow, so feel free to dump your own grains of salt into the screen. Apply liberally. His eyes skirt over as I pathetically attempt to carve aluminum earrings out of a favored beer can. Smiles and conversation, winking innuendos and dexterous evasion of topics I find uncomfortable. I scan my brain for those familiar guards I set up with charming men, but traveling has left them eroded and in need of serious repair. Instead I loosen up and let him work his way into my memory; for the first time on my journey it’s not just the other way around. In several days I’ll be back at this same truckstop city, six beers deep at the local bar 8 blocks down the way. The men swarm at the novelty of a woman in this testosterone filled town. They call me Molly Ringwald in slurs and stumbles. They touch my lower back as they hand me another round on the house. They follow me at 3 mph in their bulky trucks and text me absurd offers of cash to stay the night. It’ll cover my meals and room, no mention of what it’ll cost. They compliment my hair and smile and mouth and survival style; my boldness, my laugh, my age, my temporary presence. Unraveling at an exponential rate with each bottle drained, I no longer need to search for hidden intentions – they are all festering and multiplying along the countertop, spilling onto the floor, crawling up the legs of pool tales and barstools. And I wonder why my guard here is full force allowing me to laugh off the prostitution proposals, violations of space, neglect of my words. Why charm slips through weathered cracks while machismo throws itself against stone walls, and whether there is in fact a real difference between an ogre and a prince.

Wednesday, October 24, 2012

geographic backtracking - thoughts on phoenix

Coffee is the honey of every swarming  indie bee hive. I perch in a corner comb and watch as beautiful tattooed women zig zag past, into the nest to brew and consume and bring it back into the world. Trails of smoke replace the constant buzz of work to be done. We have found the hip section of phoenix - a tiny cherished enclave sitting within the sixth most populous city in the nation. The Arts District is Portland, concentrated into five arizonan blocks. Screen printing spaces, book stores, vintage boutiques, and record shops. Walls plastered with angry graffiti and/or silhouettes painted by ex-urban outfitters employees in protest of the mass produced. It thrives and is alive in a way that demands a moment of marveling at least, but those who study bees see beyond the random motions and delicious production process. There is routine, patterns in the chaos, common ground among the indie-viduals, similar trends across wide communities. Still, for phoenix this enclave is particular and unique.

Move out a layer and you find corporations reaching glass paned arms towards the sky, Capitol buildings bulbous and lain in brick. Again another layer and your streets begin to widen, your storefronts may seem few and far between. Zoom out further until the names of incorporated cities appear in bolded black Ariel - Tempe, Scottsdale, Glendale, Peoria, Mesa. And smack dab in the middle of these incorporated cities that make up metro-phoenix lies Guadalupe - a one square mile town from mexico, cargo that must have been airlifted and dumped in central arizona due to excess weight. Like day and night, Guadalupe rubs up against the Tempe mall - mass corporate billboards tower over modest colorful houses that have been occupied by the same families for generations. The space is Yaqui and Mexican although the divide is palpable to locals. But to the untrained visitor it all seems to fold into one place. Even within the enlcave there are sub-divisions. Ahhhh the complexities.

My host's car is colorfully chalked on the back - window paint reads "We will not comply! Say no to SB10-70" She explains how the town set up road blocks for the police raids - 80 year old women with canes standing next to the Guadalupe's mayor and judge holding off 100 police cars. She describes the police raid on a sunday; the image of a little girl in confirmation with the military tank in the background. She describes the shift of apathy towards the recent shooting in the neighborhood and the flux of a town that stands so strongly together at some times and turns the other cheek at others. But this is the nature of community, the nature of all enclaves. Just like the Arts District, and Portland, and every other self-selecting "cool" community.

Enclaves - it's what defines the great urban space. They shift and dissolve and are celebrated for their separateness while simultaneously being criticized for their exclusivity. They are spaces that fill you with a constant sense of angst about your role in being there, drawing bold black lines separating insiders from outsiders as if it were the only and ultimate distinction. And the irony of territorialism sits in the front row and throws tomatoes at you during your monologue. At the large scale, it's bullshit. Everyone has the right to movement! they say. And pushing others out is wrong, self-involved, unprecedented, injust. But on the communal level we all sing a different tune. Any group who has been in a space for more than 10 years prints out their own personalized rights to the neighborhood on glossy cardstock. Any changes, whether or not they occur naturally, without the unanimous consent of the rightful community members causes uproar. Outsiders! Gentrification! Attack, Assault, Abuse! Yes yes i know it's always more grey than we can explain, but we see the trend now don't we? How come the most liberal of us don't delve into our own NIMBYism? How can we poke fun at the irony? Or should we just bring our own tomatoes and come prepared to heckle?

Sunday, October 21, 2012

south


Unimpeded stretches of yellow and brown scratch across the surface north and south of me. Up ahead the faint shadows of blue-grey mountains start to show. Southern land is rugged and would run wild if not for the crooked posts pinned along every section of land fencing off what belongs to whom. The desert is barbed and tamed. Telephone poles jut into the ground helping hold it in place. If these pins were undone, I’m sure the dust would roll up in waves like a sheet being shaken free of debris and blow in all direction. The landscape of the south itself could rebel and run rampant if only we unpinned it.

Something romantic about stretches of road cutting through the landscape creeps into the air filters of the bus. The man next to me inks a small pornographic sketch of a girl in military garb and gas mask. Biker couples whip into emergency side lanes around us. I imagine they are hooting and hollering, she gets wet holding onto her leathered hunk as he's glued to the throttle. There are inner-state tensions among the solidarity. Like a large jewish family – they all recognize their connections and nod at each others’ accomplishments while whispers and raised eyebrows draw distinctions between each one. Arizona, New Mexico, Texas wrangled and tangled in tough love.

This greyhound is more packed and desperate than others I have inhabited before. A surprise Cocaine bust led the blonde tattooed gentleman to skip out on his court date in Oregon. He sucks on a rolled cigarette and exhales his story – I can be your receptacle good sir, I can be your canyon. “ Yeah, fuck undercover cops,” I echo. His dad promises a job upon his return back south. Martin, the larger latino man with a brother in the military, loved California but hated the trucking industry. He thinks I should get into construction if I pass through McAllen – he swears to hook me up in the hypothetical. The small black girl is yanked up off the floor by her shirt collar – her braid whips up with her tiny frame. No one looks as her mother whispers angrily in her tearing eyes. Don’t be that kid girl. Nobody sides with the bus-crier… I know, I’ve been her. A 40-something white woman clad in Zumies gear screams explicatives at her scurrying children. Two rows behind her is the tail end of an alimony conversation. Pick your poison passengers. This southern bus is rugged and wild and full of tough love.

Still, when I ask, a pebble of pride beams back through. “It’s good to be back south,” they all smile and let their heads pan. "Home." they throw in at the last moment. "It's good to be back home." I allow for their moment of joyous reflection and wait for the inevitable launch into nostalgia. Describing country life and hard life and backwaters, po-dunk, killin rattle snakes and eating Whattaburger and hooting at women and driving real fast. It’s all part of the appeal, they explain. This is rugged and rolling and real. They are home, and ready to put their pins back. Things have been too shaken up the past couple of months.